In a big house climat control is a bit more complex than in a small house. In a typical situation there is a single heating unit which is switched on or off using a thermostat that is placed in the main living room. All other heaters in (for example) bedrooms are switched on as welle when the living room is getting colder. A possible solution is to apply thermostatic valves on each heater, but they only cut off the warm water supply when it get’s to hot, when it is too cold, it can not request war water from the central heating unit.
I plan to have a thermostat in each room that are connected in parallel to the central heating unit, when one (or more) rooms need warm water they can all request this from the central heater. To cut off the warm water supply when a room reaches it’s temperature, an electrical valve is placed in the supply line so that each room can control it’s own supply.
If a door or window is opened, the room is connected to an area which can either have a lower temperature setting or were the temperature is actually a lot colder (outside). In that case the thermostat should automaticly change it’s temperature setting to the lowest value of the two rooms or even decide to cut off the warm water supply at all. In order to detect open doors and windows each door or window will be equiped with a magnetic read switch.
Secondly, if a room is not occupied in ‘x’ minutes, the temperature can also be reduced. Using motion sensors that are placed all over the house the MCU can reduce the temperature setting of the thermostat that controls that area.
Both the switches and the motion sensors allow me to build a very easy alarm system as well, but that is for later implementation.
There are 8 area’s which will have it’s own thermostat:
- Main living room one and two
- Kitchen
- Bedroom one, two and three
- Bathroom one and two
The connecting area is a hallway and stairway, this area is controlled by thermostatic valves and a seperate temperature sensor that can activate the central heater as well.
Each of the 8 area’s have an electrical valve, 5 of them close to the central heater and 3 of them in a seperate area. The valve itself is operated by a 230V magnetic coil, since the distance between the valve and the thermostat can be up to 20 m it is not wise to switch this signal in the thermostat. It might be an option to build a BCU that controls these 5 valves (or 3) and have the MCU request the temperature from all 8 thermostats BCU’s and than tell the valve BCU what to do. However, when the MCU is off-line you still want heating… A better solution is to use two low voltage signal wires that are routed between the BCU and the central heating unit like any normal solution. In this case this means there are 8 signal pairs were each signal pair should drive a relay that activates the coil and at the same time starts the central heater.
The MCU can always request the status and temperature from the various thermostats BCU, it can combine this with the status of doors and windows and than give a command to each thermostats to change it’s reference temperature. In theory it can also give a command to acivate or de-active the valve connect to the thermostat. This migh come in handy during maintenance are to cycle the valve every day to prevent it from sticking when not used for a long time during the summer.
Target is to keep the valve-logic as simple as possible, so not implemented as a BCU with netwerk access. Initially I will use standard thermostats and they must be able to drive the hardware, when I have more time I will design a new thermostat that holds a BCU and monitors the door to which it is closely mounted. Than more logic can be applied. Also on the central heater side, the valve logic should short a signal like a normal thermostat. The heater I selected is a Remeha Quinta Pro 45, this heater has some 0-10V IO’s that I would like to control, for example, it can output the usage percentage of the burner. I will add a BCU to the central heater which can than send info to the main MCU to add more logic, for example delay heating of an area before a new one get’s warm water to optimize burner performance. But this is for later, cold evenings to design, for now, it should simply work.
Below a simple overview of the valve logic. As mentioned, there are two of them which need to be connected in series.

The relay can be driven using a C94301 relay I used many times before. This 5V relay uses a 30mA switching current and has two poles that switch between two contacts. The first switch can be used to drive the relay and the second switch to drive the central heater keeping the driving electronics very simple. The total power consumption would than be 5*30mA=150mA at 5V or 0.75W allowing me to use a very simple 230VAC/5VDC power supply that can be soldered directly on the PCB, something like the TMLM04105 leaving enough power to drive an LED next to the relay indicating the current state for each valve. As input electronics a simple transistor setup using the BC547B will do just fine.
As for housing, there will 5 installation tubes coming from the thermostats, 5 power cords going to the valves, a signal wire to the central heater, an installation tube from the 3-valve control box and a power cord for the power supply. So many connections taking up a lot of space, the board itself will be very small compared to the box. Using a clear lid prevents the need of making holes for the LED’s and it looks more high-tech… The TK-PS 2518 box will do just fine.